Day 2: Dryman to Rowardennan 26km

Setting the scene:

It was a difficult hike today, but the scenery around Loch Lomond (we will walk all 37km of its length by midday tomorrow) was stunning. After our 26km walk from Dryman (Mr Darcy has the impressive elevation statistics if required), I would very much like to plunge my feet into the 197m depth of the loch to cool them off.

We’re staying at Rowardennan Hotel tonight, and our room has a lovely view of the loch. I seemed to annoy the kitchen for requesting a replacement for the brioche bun on my hamburger. Seriously? Who likes a sweet yellow bun on a burger? Thankfully, the kitchen found me something from tomorrow’s breakfast to replace the bun, and I will be eternally grateful for that. My large glass of wine, if you were wondering, was excellent. As was Mr Darcy’s ice cream (I refrained from desert, so ate his).

Our contemporaries… and climbing Conic Hill for views of Lake Lomond:

We’re getting to know a few of our fellow independent hikers. One Norwegian couple have THE most adorable 15 month old son (only strong Norwegian people could possibly backpack with a toddler up the craggy mountain paths). The little boy is already waving with great animation whenever he sees us (naturally, we wave with equal abandon back). While we are raising the age demographic of the other hikers quite considerably, they are all very nice about it. And much as our feet were sore tonight, we noted that many others were adopting a similar change in walking styles. Sore feet. Calves. Thighs. Like a cowboy who has spent a hard day on a horse (or has fallen off a bull and been thoroughly trampled). But hopefully a good night’s sleep will have us all striding out (if not dancing a jig) tomorrow.

The good:

Spectacular views of Loch Lomond and Ben Lomond (the steep climb was totally worthwhile). The weather was excellent!

The ‘I didn’t know that.’

The Scottish Government has initiated a program where, in all state administered public toilets such as those in tourist centres, libraries and other facilities, sanitary items are provided for free to anyone who requires them. Private enterprise are catching on too, taking similar steps to provide these essential items. What a worthwhile initiative!

The bad:

It’s difficult to walk around the shoreline of Scotland’s largest loch, but climbing up and up and up to pass through the forest again and again and again before returning to the shoreline is difficult too. On the bright side, the forest walks were magical, as was the birdsong.

Research:

Penultimately, here is a picture of a highland sheep and his mother. The ewe was drinking from a stream and refused to look up, but junior was more accomodating. Highland sheep are hardy and independent - they have to be due to the inaccessibility of many areas for many months of the year. Cue Scottish vet Blake Sinclair in the book I’m writing now…

The loch has barely any public or private buildings around it, but camping is encouraged, and there is more sand around the loch than appears on most Scottish beaches. The water is great for kayaking but we saw very few swimmers today.

A final thought…

Todays walk was rated ‘moderate’ by (clearly) an Olympic marathon runner, a world champion hurdler, and Superman . Given they have rated tomorrow’s walk ‘moderate to strenuous.’ I’d better get to sleep!