The countryside, the hike and the ailments

Todays hike was only 26 km, but following on from yesterday’s 36km hike, it was a long if fulfilling day walking from Haddon on the Wall to Chesters Roman Fort

The hike:

We saw beautiful Northumberland countryside (with more to come in the next few days of hiking). This section of the walk is sometimes criticised because it closely follows a road, but as a great deal of that road is built over the foundations of Hadrian’s wall, there wasn’t much choice. In any case, most of the time we climbed over styles and through quirky gates (including kissing gates which are hard to explain but are a very useful type of gate). We also saw a lovely bird viewing area, not that we saw many birds.

The path is comprehensively marked (an acorn marks the spot) and England’s ‘right to roam’ over private property, combined with the national trail status of Hadrian’s Wall, mean that it’s permissible to walk though fields of farm animals and crops to walk from the east to west of England.

Side note: Most people walk from west to east on this trail, partly because of the tailwind that blows in this direction. We’ve seen the sense of this in the past two days as we’ve been walking into a headwind. Luckily the weather has been excellent (arguably too warm) but in the rain the headwind would prove more difficult.

Memorable moments from the day.

We’d only been walking for half an hour when a passing motorist stopped his car and wound down thewindow.

Woman passenger: You look like people who know where they are going!

Man driver: Do you know where we can see Hadrian’s Wall?

Me: Go back a few miles to Heddon on the Wall where you’ll find a handsome foundation and stretch of wall.

Woman: We’ve been there! We couldn’t find it!

Me: Walk through a narrow gate just past the garage and bus stop. I promise it’s there.

The thing is, some areas are better signposted than others, and some remnants (in a sea of stone walls) are difficult to find. We have an App and a map, but it’s easy enough to miss a turn off – particularly after a full day of walking. We are getting good at spotting the ditches that ran in front of the wall. When I am less weary I will explain in more detail (possibly making your weary too), but the wall was initially designed to be three metres wide in the foundations, and six metres tall. But there was also a six metre ditch in front of the wall to make it even more difficult to get through to ‘the Roman side’ of the wall. Trouble was, since the wall was built (it was started in AD122) and the Roman’s left a few hundred years later, the stones have been used to make farmhouses and walls and many other things.

Physical condition of walkers:

I’m reasonably certain that the second toe of each of my feet will lose their toenails as, with every step for a few hours today, it felt like my toenail was being lifting from my toe by a Machiavellian being, and my toes are now swollen all around the nail. I’ve been afflicted with this condition in other hikes and have put many preventative then remedial plasters and everything else on my toes. Orthotics come in and go out, as do many swear words. Tomorrow I’ll bring runners on the hike. But likely nothing much can be done. I don’t get blisters except under my toenails - the movement of my foot on the path seems to be too much for my second toes. On the bright side, when hiking in Scotland three years ago I had a big toe problem and that was worse!  Anyway, it only hurts when I walk …

Tonight, after my glorious shower (we are staying in a lovely B&B (pictured below) that dates back to the 1500s, I prepared Mr Darcy’s bath by running the cold water first and submerging my feet in the icy depths. Tomorrow Mr Darcy will carry not only ten thousand gallons of water (he is like a camel, I swear) and my thermos of tea, but also my spare footwear so I can swap shoes. I carry our food for the day, a much easier task as we eat it as we go. I also carry a chap stick and band aids.

How is Mr Darcy? Annoyingly perky when walking, but half-dead as soon as we stop. Sleeps like a bear in hibernation. Bright again the next morning. As I said, annoying.

Hike highlights:

A lovely stretch of wall in a paddock, a fort, and cattle climbing up a bitumen hill (Why? Because cows are curious creatures). Will find a picture of this tomorrow). Lots of sheep and the occasional horse (which I must photograph), but mostly the wonderful Northumberland countryside. Also a highlight, we didn’t potentially lose a phone.